Current Projects:
– Writing a bouldering guide to Black Mountain, an area popularized in the old climbing video Rampage. The publisher is Wolverine Publishing, and it will be available in stores the summer of 2011.
– The most accomplished Joshua Tree climber in recent memory, has arguably repeated more routes 5.13 or harder than anyone in the history of the park. Focusing this winter on leading unfinished projects from previous years, including Dihedron (5.14a/b R), and Stingray (5.13d). As anyone who has climbed in Joshua Tree knows, the grades don’t do these routes justice.
Sport Climbing:
– A redpoint list too long to write out, with over two hundred and fifty routes 5.13 or harder, on all types of rocks, all over the world.
– Redpointed nineteen 5.14's, and if the grade consensus on www.8a.nu is included, there are six more. Notable sends include:
Rastafarian, 5.14b (Joshua Tree, CA) – The second ascent, fifteen years after it was established. Between the sandbagging and the holds breaking, the route is significantly harder than the original grade of 5.13b.
Pata Negra, 5.14b (Rodellar, Spain) – An endurance test piece that crowned a past trip to Europe.
New Deal, 5.14a (Joshua Tree, CA) – First climbed in 1988, this is the only ascent in over two decades and validation of the historical significance of the route, a contender for the first 5.14 established by an American.
Além da Imaginação, 5.14a (Sierra do Cipó, Brazil) – A seldom-repeated route that is unique in being less than vertical.
Badman, 5.14a (Smith Rocks, OR) – How can anyone forget their first 5.14, this one from back in 2003.
– Numerous first ascents around the world, for example:
Sea of Tranquility, 5.14a (Yangshuo, China) – A forty-five meter route out the stunning arch at Moon Hill. This was the first 5.14 in China and appeared in the film Dosage V.
Lesser Deity, 5.13d (Yangshuo, China) – A bouldery line out the middle of Odin’s Den, a virgin cave discovered and opened in 2007.
El Español, 5.13d (La Mojarra, Colombia) – The hardest route in Colombia, climbed years after a crucial drilled pocket was filled, turning the crux into an eight foot dyno.
Flight of the Bumblebee, 5.13c (Yangshuo, China).
La Guarderia, 5.13c (La Mojarra, Colombia).
Simbiosis, 5.13c (La Mojarra, Colombia).
– A handful of climbing days stand out as being exceptionally productive:
July 16, 2007 – Redpointed Zulu (5.14a) and The Gayness (5.13d) in Rifle, CO.
July 10, 2005 – Redpointed both Rebellion en la Granja (5.13b) and an unnamed 5.13d, and onsighted La Rubia (5.13c) in Rodellar, Spain.
July 7, 2004 – Repointed Direct Hit (5.14a) and Ghetto Boys (5.13c) at Mt. Charleston, NV.
September 10, 2003 – Redpointed Badman (5.14a) and Scene of the Crime (13b/c) at Smith Rocks, CA.
– Onsighted or flashed over fifty 5.13s up to 5.13c.
Traditional Climbing:
– Redpointed Father’s Day (5.14a) at Donner Summit using only natural protection, skipping the bolts on the upper section in favor of TCUs. The ascent has received good publicity in the climbing magazines.
– Others memorable traditional climbs include:
Crack of the 80s & Puma, 5.13a, (Donner Summit, CA) – Redpointed this pair of cracks in a single day, and although Puma is now bolted, climbed as it was originally done by Hidetaka Suzuki using only nuts and cams.
Ruby’s Cafe, 5.13a (Indian Creek, UT) – Onsight.
Lurking Fear (Yosemite Valley, CA) – Aided in eight hours, and although not cutting edge, this was my first time on main wall of El Capitan.
Bouldering:
– Climbed over seventy double-digit problems up to v12, notably:
Green Mamba, v12 (Rocklands, South Africa) – Originally rated v13, the downgrade is finally catching on.
Regeneration, v12 (Black Mountain, CA) – The repeat of a southern California test-piece that shall always be a proud memory.
– One of the most prolific first ascentionists in Southern California, largely in the service of the Black Mountain guidebook. It is impossible to know what is undone in an area with forty years of climbing history, but hundreds of these problems are first known ascents. Memorable additions include:
Morphic Resonance Sit, v11 (Black Mountain, CA) – A low start to the classic line from Rampage and one of the best boulder problems in the world.
The Great Line of Being, v10 (Black Mountain, CA) – A monstrous heel-hook traverse with a constant fifteen foot fall onto broken talus.
The Silver Fox, v11 (Black Mountain, CA).
Terabithia, v11 (Black Mountain, CA).
Sexual Healing, v11 (Black Mountain, CA).
The Garden of Forking Paths, v10 (Black Mountain, CA).
Alpha Centauri, v10 (Jupiter Boulders, CA).
Buzz Saw Direct, v10 (Black Mountain, CA).
Competitions:
– Twelve years of experience competing in major national championships:
2010 – 5th, Colombian National Boulder Championship (Chia, Colombia).
2005 – 9th, USA Lead Climbing Championship (San Francisco, CA).
2004 – 5th, ABS National (Sacramento, CA).
2001 – 6th, JCCA Youth Team National (Berkeley, CA).
2000 – 8th, JCCA National Championship (Portland, OR).
1999 – 5th, JCCA National Championship (Richmond, VA).
1998 – Finalist, JCCA National Championship (Denver, CO).
1997 – Semi-finalist, JCCA National Championship (Detroit, MI).
1996 – 1st, Youth, Snowbird Lodge (Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT).
– Countless local and regional competitions since 1991.
Press Appearances:
– Name mention for climbing Father’s Day in a fashion that is environmentally “almost green”, (“Green 5.14”, Climbing, Mar. 2009).
– Cover story a trip of first ascents to Yangshuo, China (“China: Weather or Not”, Urban Climber, Apr. 2008).
– Two page gallery photo of the first ascent of the highway 60 mastodon (Urban Climber, Dec. 2007).
– Name mention in a write-up on another climber who repeated Father’s Day, even though it was two years after the first ascent. (“Yosemite Pro”, Climbing, Dec. 2006).
– Featured in an article on up-and-coming young climbers (“Ten Promising Youths”, Rock and Ice, Jan. 2005).
– A photo and extensive quote in an article on headpointing (“Head Games”, Rock and Ice, Dec. 2004).
– News bite on the first ascent of Father’s Day with all natural protection (Rock and Ice, Aug. 2004).
Climbing Community:
– Employment in the climbing industry:
Route Setter, Threshhold Climbing Gym, Riverside, CA (Mar. 2008–June 2009).
Route Setter, Solid Rock Climbing Gym, San Diego, CA (Sep. 2005–Dec. 2005).
Manager, UC Davis campus climbing wall, Davis, CA (Sep. 2001–Mar. 2005).
Route Setter, Granite Arch Climbing Gym, Sacramento, CA (Aug. 1999–Sep. 2001).
– Events:
Organized the 13th annual Cow Crank Competition, Davis, CA (2004).
Organized the 12th annual Cow Crank Competition, Davis, CA (2003).
Traveling:
– Well traveled and connected in the international climbing scene. Has climbed in the following foreign areas, organized by country:
Austria – Kufstein, Schleier Wasserfall, Zillertal
Brazil – Floresta da Tijuca, Sierra do Cipó
Canada – Skaha, Squamish
China – Yangshuo
Colombia – Machetá, La Mojarra, El Piñol, Suesca
France – Céüse, Chamonix, St. Léger
Italy – Arco
Mexico – Potrero Chico
Slovenia – Misja Pec
South Africa – Rocklands
Spain – Mallorca, Riglos, Rodellar
Switzerland – Basel Jura
Turkey – Geyik Bayiri, Olympos
